FAQs

Start by checking that the charger is getting power, then reset the breaker if needed. From there, inspect the charging equipment itself and check the vehicle, since the issue can sometimes originate on the car’s side rather than the charger.

If it’s a single fixture, start by replacing the light bulb, then check the wall switch, your circuit breaker, and any tripped GFCI outlet that might be affecting that circuit.

A breaker may need replacing if it won’t stay reset after you’ve ruled out an overload, feels loose in the panel, or shows signs of burning, melting, or discoloration. Buzzing or crackling noises and a breaker that trips repeatedly under normal electrical load are also signs it’s time for a licensed electrician to replace it.

A generator backup is especially valuable for homes with frequent outages, households relying on medical equipment, and anyone working from home who needs reliable power. It also helps keep essential systems like HVAC, refrigeration, and well pumps running during an outage.

A tripped breaker is a common cause, so check your electrical panel for one that’s in the middle position or showing off. A tripped GFCI outlet can also affect several downstream outlets, so check GFCIs in the kitchen, bathrooms, garage, laundry room, and outside, then press reset. A failed main breaker or panel problem can cause large sections of the house to lose power, and a utility issue involving the loss of one power leg can also cause about half your circuits to stop working while the other half stay on, since most homes receive two 120 volt power legs.

A warm outlet shouldn’t be ignored. Stop using it if it moves significantly, and don’t try to push it back into the wall while it’s energized. Check whether only the cover plate is loose, since a moving outlet needs to be properly secured, and have it repaired or replaced if it’s loose, cracked, or damaged.

Unplug anything connected to the outlet if you can safely do so, and stop using it right away. If it’s safe, turn off the breaker that supplies that outlet. If you notice sparks, smoke, a burning smell, or the outlet feels hot, leave the breaker off and call a licensed electrician immediately. If the hissing becomes loud, you see flames, or you suspect a fire has started, leave the home and call 911.

Stop using the outlet if it moves significantly, and don’t try to push it back into the wall while it’s energized. Check whether it’s only the cover plate that’s loose, since a wiggling outlet itself needs to be properly secured. Have it repaired or replaced if it’s loose, cracked, or damaged.

Stay away from the panel and do not remove the cover. Avoid repeatedly resetting breakers or replacing fuses, since this can make the problem worse. If it’s safe to do so, unplug sensitive electronics, and if you notice smoke, burning smells, visible sparks, or the crackling becomes loud or continuous, leave the home and call 911 or your local fire department right away. Contact a licensed electrician as soon as possible to have the panel inspected.

Start by checking for a tripped GFCI outlet, since kitchens are one of the most common places for these to trip. From there, check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker and look for any visible signs of damage to the outlet itself.

If your home is more than 40 to 50 years old, it’s worth having the wiring inspected, since homes built before the 1970s often weren’t designed for today’s electrical loads. Frequently tripping breakers and flickering or dimming lights are additional signs that your home’s wiring may need to be updated.

You likely don’t need a new panel if your existing one is 200 amps and in good condition, there’s enough capacity under electrical code to add a solar back fed breaker, and the panel has available breaker spaces or can accommodate tandem breakers where permitted. Your existing panel should also be from a reputable manufacturer and not obsolete or subject to a recall.

Most EV chargers don’t require a special electrical panel, though a quality panel from a brand like Square D, Siemens, or Eaton is recommended. For the average modern home, a 200 amp panel is the most common recommendation to comfortably support an EV charger alongside your other electrical needs.

You may need a panel upgrade if your home has 100 amp service along with several large electrical loads, such as central air conditioning, an electric water heater, an electric range, an electric dryer, pool or spa equipment, or solar with battery storage. A panel that’s full with no available breaker spaces, an electrical load calculation showing insufficient capacity, an older or obsolete panel, or plans for additional electrification like a heat pump, induction range, or another EV charger are all signs an upgrade may be needed.

A whole home battery backup is a good option for shorter outages and quiet, seamless operation. A standby generator is best suited for extended outages since it can run as long as it has fuel, and a hybrid battery plus generator setup offers the most complete overall protection by combining the strengths of both.

A whole home surge protector installed at the panel offers the best protection for your entire home. Surge protecting power strips add an extra layer for individual electronics, and making sure your home is properly grounded and replacing any worn out surge protectors helps ensure everything is working as intended.

A whole home standby generator offers the best protection against extended power outages by automatically supplying backup power to your home. A battery backup system is another strong option, and installing surge protection helps safeguard your electronics and appliances whenever the power comes back on.

GFCI protection is typically required in kitchen countertop receptacles, bathrooms, garages, outdoor outlets, laundry rooms, unfinished basements, crawl spaces, and utility rooms. It’s also required within 6 feet of sinks depending on the location and applicable code, as well as at wet bar sinks and pool, spa, and hot tub equipment areas.

A tripped GFCI outlet is the most common reason outlets stop working, so check for one first. From there, check your breaker panel, look for signs of a bad outlet, consider whether any recent electrical changes were made, and check for a failed outlet that may need replacement.

If it’s a single fixture, start by replacing the light bulb, then check the wall switch, your circuit breaker, and any tripped GFCI outlets. It also helps to determine how much of the house is affected, which can point to whether the issue is isolated or more widespread. If you notice a burning smell, buzzing sounds, sparks, or warm outlets or switches, treat that as a warning sign and call a licensed electrician.

Unplug everything connected to the GFCI outlet and any outlets it protects, then press the reset button firmly on the front of the outlet until you feel or hear it click. Test the outlet by plugging in a lamp or phone charger to confirm power has been restored, then plug your other devices back in one at a time.

Start by turning off and unplugging any appliances or devices on the affected circuit, which helps prevent the breaker from tripping again right away. Open your electrical panel and locate the tripped breaker, which is often positioned halfway between on and off or shows an orange or red indicator depending on the brand. Push the breaker firmly to the off position first, since many breakers won’t reset unless fully switched off, then move it back to on until you feel or hear it click into place. Finally, test the circuit by turning lights or appliances back on one at a time to confirm everything is working normally.

An overloaded circuit is one of the most common reasons a breaker trips, but a short circuit, a faulty appliance, or a failing breaker itself can also be the cause. If a breaker trips repeatedly even after removing the load, it’s best to have a licensed electrician diagnose the issue.

It may be time for a panel upgrade if your breakers trip frequently or you still have an older fuse box, which isn’t built to handle today’s electrical loads. Flickering or dimming lights, a panel with no available breaker spaces, or plans to add equipment like an EV charger, hot tub, solar panels, or other large appliances are all good reasons to have your panel evaluated.

Stop using the outlet immediately and turn off the circuit at the breaker box or panel. Keep an eye out for any signs of fire, and don’t use the outlet again until a licensed journeyman electrician has inspected it.

Sparking at the panel can stem from a loose light bulb or faulty switch elsewhere in a circuit, a loose electrical connection, moisture or water intrusion, damaged wiring, or an aging and obsolete panel that’s no longer safe for today’s electrical loads. Sparking at the panel is a serious safety concern, so avoid touching the panel and contact a licensed electrician right away.

Flickering lights are often caused by something as simple as a loose light bulb or a faulty light switch. A loose electrical connection, a large appliance switching on, or an overloaded circuit can also cause flickering, as can utility power fluctuations outside your home. If flickering happens throughout the house or gets worse over time, it’s worth having a licensed electrician take a look.

Hot water that runs out fast is often caused by sediment buildup inside the tank, which reduces its effective capacity and heating efficiency. It can also mean your water heater is simply too small for your household’s demand, or that a faulty heating element or thermostat problem is preventing the unit from keeping up. A plumber can determine which of these is behind your short hot water supply and recommend the right fix.

If you’ve lost hot water, the first step is checking whether your water heater has lost power or fuel. For electric units, check your home’s electrical panel for a tripped breaker and reset it once if needed. For gas units, make sure the gas supply valve is open and confirm other gas appliances are working. A pilot light that’s gone out, a thermostat set too low, a failed heating element, or heavy sediment buildup can all cause a loss of hot water as well. If your unit is 10 to 15 years old, needs frequent repairs, or is leaking, it may simply be nearing the end of its service life and need replacement.

No. Despite the name, flushable wipes are not actually safe to flush. They don’t break down the way toilet paper does, and they’re one of the leading causes of clogged pipes and sewer backups. It’s best to always throw them in the trash instead.

Low shower pressure is often caused by a partially closed shut off valve, so make sure both your home’s main water valve and the water meter valve are fully open. Mineral deposits inside a clogged faucet aerator or showerhead can also restrict flow, and removing and cleaning them with vinegar usually helps. A worn pressure reducing valve (PRV), a hidden plumbing leak, or corroded and aging galvanized pipes can all reduce pressure throughout the home. In some cases, municipal water supply issues like main repairs or hydrant flushing can temporarily lower pressure as well.

Recurring leaks are one of the clearest signs you may need a repipe. If you’re repairing leaks every few months, your pipes are likely deteriorating rather than experiencing isolated failures. Discolored or rusty water can indicate corrosion inside galvanized steel pipes, while low water pressure throughout the home often points to mineral buildup, corrosion, or damaged piping. Visible corrosion on exposed pipes, unexplained increases in your water bill, and older plumbing materials like galvanized steel or aging polybutylene are all additional signs that a full repipe may be more cost effective than continued repairs.

A good rule of thumb is to have your home’s plumbing professionally inspected once a year. Annual inspections catch small issues before they turn into expensive repairs, help improve your home’s water efficiency, and extend the overall life of your plumbing system.

Banging or ‘water hammer’ noises often happen when a water hammer arrestor has failed and is no longer cushioning the sudden stop of water flow. Whistling or squealing sounds are typically caused by a worn faucet washer or cartridge, a partially closed shutoff valve, mineral buildup restricting flow, or excessively high water pressure. If the noise is frequent or getting louder, it’s worth having a plumber take a look before it leads to bigger issues.

Repairing your water heater usually makes sense if it’s less than 8 to 10 years old (for a standard tank unit) and the issue is relatively minor, such as a faulty thermostat, a bad heating element, a worn pressure relief valve, a pilot light or igniter issue, or a leaking drain valve. As a rule of thumb, if the repair costs less than about 50% of a replacement, repair is the better value. Replacement is typically the right call if your tank is 10 to 15 years old or older (tankless units often last 15 to 20 years or more), if the storage tank itself is leaking, or if you’re seeing rust colored hot water, significant corrosion, frequent breakdowns, or rumbling and popping sounds from heavy sediment buildup.

We recommend avoiding chemical drain cleaners whenever possible. They can damage your pipes over time, often fail to fix the actual clog since they only dissolve part of the blockage, and can be dangerous to handle. A plunger, drain snake, or a call to a professional plumber is a safer and more effective way to clear a stubborn clog.

Start by locating your main water shut off valve, which is typically near your water meter, in the basement, or where the main line enters the home. If it’s a ball valve, turn the lever 90 degrees to shut it off. If it’s a gate valve, turn the round handle clockwise several full turns until it stops. Once you’ve turned it off, run a faucet to confirm the water supply has stopped.

A plumbing emergency is any issue that puts your home or health at immediate risk. This includes burst pipes, which can cause rapid water damage and structural issues, and major water leaks that can’t be contained or shut off. Sewage backups are a health hazard the moment wastewater starts coming up through drains, toilets, or tubs. Overflowing toilets (especially if it’s your only bathroom), a complete loss of water supply unrelated to a municipal outage, and a total loss of hot water are also situations that call for immediate professional help.

Common signs of a slab leak include unexpectedly high water bills despite no change in usage, and the sound of running or dripping water even when every faucet and appliance is off. You may also notice warm or hot spots on the floor if the leak is in a hot water line, along with wet floors, damp carpet, or puddles with no obvious source. Cracks in floors, walls, or the foundation, mold or a musty odor, low water pressure throughout the house, and a water meter that keeps moving after everything is shut off are all strong indicators that you need a professional leak detection right away.

Signs you may need a water softener include white, chalky buildup on faucets, showerheads, or dishes, soap that doesn’t lather well, and spots or film left on glasses after washing. You might also notice dry skin, dull or brittle hair after showering, stiff or faded laundry, and reduced water pressure caused by mineral buildup in your pipes. Frequent repairs to your water heater, dishwasher, or washing machine are another common indicator of hard water in your home.

Smelly drains are usually caused by a buildup of food, grease, soap, and hair inside the pipe, or a dry P-trap that’s no longer blocking sewer gas from entering your home. A dirty garbage disposal, a slow or clogged drain, or issues with your sewer line or vent stack can also produce foul odors. Regular cleaning and running water through rarely used drains can help prevent this, but persistent smells are worth having a professional investigate.

Sewer backups are frequently caused by tree root intrusion into underground lines, which can crack pipes and block flow over time. Flushing items that shouldn’t go down the toilet, like so called flushable wipes, paper towels, feminine hygiene products, cotton swabs, dental floss, and diapers, is another leading cause. If you notice slow drains throughout your home or sewage backing up into tubs and toilets, call a plumber right away, since this is considered a health hazard.

Low water pressure can stem from a partially closed main water valve, clogged faucet aerators or showerheads, or a hidden plumbing leak. Corroded or aging pipes and a faulty pressure reducing valve are also common causes throughout an entire home. If it’s only your hot water that’s affected, the issue may be with the water heater itself rather than your plumbing.

A dripping faucet is commonly caused by a worn washer in compression style faucets, a worn cartridge, or a damaged O-ring, which is the small rubber seal that helps prevent leaks around the handle. A corroded valve seat or unusually high water pressure can also lead to persistent drips. Replacing the worn part is usually a straightforward fix that stops the drip and saves water.

If your disposal won’t turn on at all, check for a tripped GFCI outlet nearby and reset it. If the disposal hums but doesn’t grind, turn it off and disconnect the power, then use the hex (Allen) wrench that came with the unit to manually turn the shaft from underneath until it moves freely again. This often clears a jam without needing a service call, but if the disposal still won’t run, it’s time to have a plumber take a look.

How often you should flush your water heater depends on your water quality. If you have hard water or notice popping and rumbling noises, flushing every 6 months helps clear out sediment buildup. Homes with a water softener and minimal sediment can typically flush every 2 to 3 years, though an annual flush is still a safe habit that extends the life of your unit.

A leaking water heater is often the result of loose plumbing connections, a faulty temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve, or a leaking drain valve. The most serious cause is a corroded tank, which usually means the unit needs to be replaced rather than repaired. If you notice water pooling around your water heater, it’s best to schedule an inspection right away to prevent water damage.

If your water heater isn’t producing hot water, the thermostat may be set too low (120°F is the recommended setting). It’s also possible the tank is simply still recovering after a period of heavy use, such as back to back showers. A tripped breaker or power issue can be the cause too, since even gas water heaters rely on electricity for ignition and controls. A leaking water heater can also lead to a loss of hot water and typically needs professional repair or replacement.

Clogged drains are usually caused by a buildup of hair, grease, soap scum, or food debris. Start by removing and cleaning the sink strainer, then try flushing the drain with hot water if the clog is minor (skip the boiling water if you have PVC pipes, since extreme heat can damage the joints). A sink specific plunger can also help clear minor blockages. Avoid chemical drain cleaners, since they can damage your pipes without solving the underlying clog. If the problem persists, a professional drain cleaning service can clear it safely.

A running toilet is almost always caused by a worn flapper that is no longer sealing the flush valve properly, letting water slowly leak into the bowl. Other common culprits include a flush chain that is too long or too short, or a fill valve that needs adjustment or replacement. A licensed plumber can quickly identify which part is failing and fix it before it drives up your water bill.

Weak airflow from the vents, higher than normal electric bills, and longer cooling cycles are all signs your AC system needs cleaning. You might also notice dust blowing from the vents, musty or dirty odors, ice forming on the indoor coil or refrigerant lines, or water leaking around the indoor unit, all of which point to a system that’s due for maintenance.

As a general guideline, duct cleaning every 5 to 10 years is reasonable for most homes. You should consider having it done sooner if your home is older and the ducts have never been cleaned, you’ve recently completed a remodeling project that created drywall dust or debris, you bought a home without knowing its maintenance history, or you have pets that shed heavily. Visible mold around vents, dust or debris blowing out of registers, unexplained musty odors when the system runs, or evidence of rodents or insects in the ductwork are all signs it’s time for a cleaning.

A whole house fan can lower your cooling costs by drawing naturally cool outside air through your home instead of relying solely on your AC. It cools the house quickly, improves indoor air quality by increasing air exchange, and reduces overall wear on your air conditioning system, which is especially useful given Southern California’s mild evenings and dry climate.

It may be time to replace your system if it’s 10 to 15 years old or older, if you’re dealing with frequent breakdowns, or if your energy bills are steadily rising without a change in usage. Uneven heating or cooling throughout your home is another sign that your current system is struggling to keep up and a replacement may be the more cost effective option.

A booming sound is usually caused by delayed ignition, while squealing often points to a worn blower motor. Rattling is commonly a loose access panel, clicking can be part of the normal thermostat or ignition sequence, and buzzing often indicates loose electrical components. Any new or worsening noise is worth having a technician check out.

A thermostat issue is the most common cause of a heater that won’t turn on. Also check for a tripped breaker or loss of power, a dirty air filter, a furnace door that isn’t fully closed, and the condensate drain or safety switch, all of which can prevent the system from starting.

Thermostat settings are the most common reason a heater won’t blow warm air, so check those first. A dirty air filter, a furnace that’s overheating, a pilot light or ignition problem on gas furnaces, or a dirty flame sensor can all prevent your system from producing heat.

Mold or mildew growing on the evaporator coil, drain pan, or inside the condensate drain line often causes a musty smell. A dirty sock smell usually points to bacteria growing on the evaporator coil, while a burning smell is normal briefly at the start of the season but should prompt you to shut the unit off if it continues. A rotten egg smell can indicate a natural gas leak or, less commonly, a dead animal, and should be treated as an emergency. A chemical or sweet smell often signals a refrigerant leak, and a burning plastic smell can mean melting wire, both of which call for immediate professional attention.

A clogged condensate drain line is the most common cause of an AC unit leaking water. A dirty air filter, a frozen evaporator coil, a cracked or rusted drain pan, a failed condensate pump, or low refrigerant can all lead to water pooling around your indoor unit as well. Addressing it quickly helps prevent water damage to your floors and ceilings.

For a typical household with no pets, plan to replace your air filter every 60 to 90 days. If you have pets, allergies, smokers in the home, or run your AC heavily, replacing it every 30 days will keep your system running efficiently and your air quality higher.

A thorough maintenance visit covers both the indoor and outdoor components of your system. Indoors, a technician will replace or clean the air filter, inspect the evaporator coil for dirt or damage, check the blower motor and blower wheel, and inspect the drain pan. Outdoors, they’ll clean the condenser coil, remove debris from in and around the unit, inspect the condenser fan motor and blades, and check for excessive vibration. The technician will also verify the refrigerant charge, check for signs of leaks, test the capacitor, inspect the contactor for wear, tighten electrical connections, measure voltage and amperage, inspect wiring for damage or overheating, verify breaker and disconnect operation, measure operating temperatures, and confirm compressor and overall cooling performance.

Air conditioners should be serviced once a year, ideally in the spring before hot weather arrives, and gas furnaces once a year in the fall before heating season. Heat pumps need service twice a year, once in spring and once in fall, since they provide both heating and cooling for your home.

An outdoor condenser typically lasts 12 to 20 years, while furnaces often last 15 to 25 years, with gas furnaces sometimes reaching 20 or more. Heat pumps generally last 10 to 15 years since they run year round in both heating and cooling modes, and an indoor evaporator coil can last 12 to 20 years with proper maintenance.

Air conditioners should be serviced once a year, ideally in the spring before hot weather arrives, and furnaces once a year in the fall before heating season begins. Heat pumps need maintenance twice a year, in both spring and fall, since they handle heating and cooling. Mini-split systems should be serviced at least once a year, or twice a year if used year round, and air filters should be checked or replaced every 1 to 3 months.

Common signs your AC may be low on refrigerant include warm air coming from the vents even with the thermostat set to cool, and your home taking much longer to cool than it used to. You might notice the system running almost continuously without ever reaching the set temperature, ice forming on the indoor evaporator coil or refrigerant lines, or higher than normal electric bills as the system works harder. Hissing or bubbling sounds near the indoor or outdoor unit can also point to a refrigerant leak, along with generally reduced airflow throughout the home.

In most cases, this simply means the batteries are running low and need to be replaced. It’s also possible the batteries were installed incorrectly, the thermostat needs to be reset, or there’s an underlying thermostat malfunction if fresh batteries don’t clear the light.

Dead batteries are the most common cause of thermostat lights going out. A tripped circuit breaker, a blown furnace or air handler fuse, a safety switch that has cut power, or loose or damaged thermostat wiring can also be the culprit. Checking the breaker panel and replacing the batteries is a good first step before calling for service.

If your thermostat won’t shut off, first check your thermostat settings, since it may simply be set too low for the space to satisfy. A dirty air filter, a refrigerant leak, or a faulty thermostat itself can also keep the system running continuously without ever reaching temperature.

A dirty air filter can cause the system to overheat and shut the fan down as a safety measure. A blown fuse or tripped breaker, a failed blower motor, or a bad blower capacitor can also stop the fan from running. A technician can quickly test the motor and capacitor to determine which part needs replacing.

If your AC won’t turn on at all, check for a thermostat issue first, followed by a tripped breaker or blown fuse. Make sure the system’s power switch is in the on position, and check for a clogged condensate drain, which can trigger a safety shutoff on many systems.

Start by checking your thermostat setting to make sure it’s actually set to cool. A dirty air filter, an outdoor unit that isn’t running, blocked vents, or low refrigerant are the most common reasons an AC blows air that isn’t cold. A technician can check refrigerant levels and airflow to pinpoint the exact cause.

A dirty air filter is the most common reason an AC unit trips the breaker, since it forces the system to work harder and draw more power. A dirty outdoor condenser, a bad capacitor, a failing compressor, or a breaker that’s simply too weak for the system’s load can also cause repeated trips. If resetting the breaker doesn’t solve it, it’s time for a professional inspection.

This is called short cycling, and the most common cause is a dirty air filter restricting airflow. Thermostat issues, a dirty outdoor condenser, low refrigerant, or electrical and control problems can all cause the same rapid on and off pattern. Short cycling puts extra wear on your system, so it’s worth having a technician diagnose the cause before it leads to a bigger repair.